Padlocks and Gate Locks: Choosing for the Weather

Start with the job, not the lock

Padlocks come in so many sizes and styles that shoppers often choose by appearance or by the label on the package. A better starting point is the job. What is being locked? A side gate that keeps a dog in the yard has different needs from a shed that holds expensive tools, a boat trailer parked in a lot, a storage unit, a pool equipment enclosure, a utility cabinet or a community entry gate shared by dozens of people.

Ask four questions. How exposed is the location to weather and to salt air? How likely is it that someone will try to tamper with the lock, and how much damage would that cause? Who needs to open it, and how often? And what happens if the key is lost? The answers steer you toward a style and a level of build quality, and they also tell you whether you need a keyed-alike set, a combination model or something that suits a shared arrangement.

• Location: sheltered, outdoor, coastal or pool-area.
• Value: the cost of loss or damage, not the cost of the lock.
• Users: one person, a household, a crew or a community.
• Frequency: daily use or rare access.

Parts of a padlock and what they do

A padlock has a few basic parts. The body holds the locking mechanism. The shackle is the U-shaped loop that passes through the hasp, chain or gate hardware. The locking mechanism inside the body grabs the shackle and holds it. The keyway is where the key goes, and many models have a small cover to keep out rain and grit.

Differences in each part change how the lock performs. A larger, heavier body generally has thicker material around the mechanism. A thicker shackle resists cutting and prying better than a thin one, but a very thick shackle will not fit through a small hasp. A shackle that is short and close to the body leaves less room for a tool to get in, while a long shackle is easier to attach but easier to attack. Matching the shackle length and thickness to the hardware that it passes through is part of the choice.

Shackle material and finish in humid, salty air

Weather decides the lifespan of an outdoor padlock more than anything else. Plain steel rusts, and the rust spreads from the shackle into the body and the mechanism. Brass bodies resist rust but are softer, and brass can tarnish and pit in salt air. Stainless steel resists corrosion much better but still needs a clean, dry life to last. Some locks are plated, coated or made of laminated steel with a protective covering, and each finish ages differently.

In a coastal city such as Fort Lauderdale, Hollywood or Boca Raton, or on the Intracoastal side of any community, salt moves with the wind and settles on everything outdoors. A lock that looks fine in spring may be stiff by autumn. A lock inland, in a place like Weston, Wellington or Davie, faces heat, humidity and frequent rain rather than salt spray, but it still suffers. Choose weather-rated models for outdoor use, check how the shackle and body are finished, and treat the lightest-duty option as a short-term fix. A related page on salt air and lock corrosion goes deeper into finishes.

Chains, cables and hasps: the lock is only part of it

A padlock is only as secure as the thing it is attached to. A strong lock on a thin chain, a weak hasp or a loose gate post is a weak combination. Choose the chain or cable with the same care as the lock. Hardened chain links, a thickness appropriate to the job and a covering that protects the finish all matter. Cables are flexible and light but are generally easier to cut than a hardened chain of similar weight.

Hasps and gate hardware should be through-bolted or secured with fasteners that cannot be removed from the outside. A hasp that is screwed into soft wood or a thin door skin can be pulled out with the lock still locked. On a fence gate, the post that holds the latch should be firmly anchored, and the gate should not have so much play that the chain slackens. The combination should be considered as a whole system of lock, chain, hasp and anchor.

• Fasten hasps with hardware that cannot be unscrewed from outside.
• Check that gate posts and fence frames are solid and plumb.
• Use chain of a thickness that fits the lock's shackle and the job.
• Keep the lock off the ground, where it collects water and dirt.

Keyed, keyed-alike, combination and shared systems

Most padlocks use a key, but there are other options. A keyed-alike set lets several padlocks open with one key, which is convenient for a property with several gates and sheds. A combination lock removes the need for a key, but the combination has to be managed, and a dial or button lock exposed to weather can stiffen. Some padlocks accept the same cylinders used in door hardware, so they can be integrated into a keying plan for a property.

On a shared property such as a community, a building or a business, you may need a system with controlled keys, where only authorized people can obtain copies. Restricted keyways and registered key systems exist for this purpose. Our guide to restricted keyways and key control explains how those work, and the page on keyed-alike for garage and gate explains the tradeoffs of using one key for several openings.

Gate locks for pedestrian gates and pool barriers

A gate lock is different from a padlock. Gate locks are built into the latch and are designed for outdoor use on swinging gates, often with a self-closing hinge and a self-latching action. They are made in metal and in plastic, with keyed, combination and keypad variants. A good one has a corrosion-resistant mechanism and a way to adjust for the small shifts that happen as a gate settles.

Pool barrier gates carry an added responsibility. They are often required by local rules to close and latch by themselves, and the latch is often placed out of a small child's reach. A lock that corrodes, a gate that no longer closes properly or a latch that sticks can make the barrier ineffective. If you are choosing hardware for a pool gate, check with your city or county building office about what applies, and replace worn latches promptly rather than propping the gate. Never defeat a self-closing mechanism to make a gate easier to use.

Gates in communities, HOAs and commercial properties

Community gates add another layer of rules. Many neighborhoods in Broward and Palm Beach counties have entry gates, pedestrian gates to a lake path or pool, and service gates for landscapers and utility crews. The association or management company decides who gets keys, fobs or PINs, and the lock hardware is part of the community's common property. Individual residents should not change or add locks to common gates, and a technician will ask for authorization from the board or manager before working on them.

Commercial properties have similar needs. A fenced yard, a dumpster enclosure, a rear lot gate and a loading area all need locks that survive heavy use. Padlocks used by several staff members can be keyed alike, or can be replaced by a keypad or keyed gate lock where key control matters. See our page on fleet and job site key control for ideas about keeping track of keys for shared outdoor locks.

Maintaining outdoor locks

Outdoor padlocks last longer with a little care. Rinse the lock with clean water if it is exposed to salt spray, and let it dry. Keep the keyway clear of grit. Operate the lock regularly so that it does not seize. Use a lubricant that the maker recommends for outdoor locks, and use it sparingly. Some products attract dust and turn gritty, and some should never be put inside a pin tumbler cylinder. Our page on lock lubricant and maintenance basics explains what helps and what harms.

Replace a lock that is badly corroded or that has become hard to operate. Forcing a stiff key can break it off in the lock, and a broken key can leave a locked gate that nobody can open. If you have a key that works with difficulty, make a fresh copy from the original rather than from a worn copy, and replace the lock before it fails. Check the hasp and chain at the same time.

1. Rinse salt and grit from the lock and hardware.
2. Dry the lock and keep the keyway clear.
3. Operate the lock regularly so it does not seize.
4. Use only a lubricant that the maker recommends for the job.
5. Replace locks that are corroded or hard to turn.

Sheds, trailers, boats and storage

Outdoor storage creates its own padlock questions. A backyard shed usually holds mowers, ladders and tools, which are easy to carry away, so the shed door, hasp and hinges matter as much as the lock. Hinges with exposed pins and screws can be removed, and a hasp mounted with exposed screws gives little protection. If the hinge pins are on the outside, consider hardware designed so the pins cannot be pulled, or a door that is hung to protect them.

Trailers, boats, jet skis and utility trailers raise a different issue. They sit outside, often near water, and the locks are exposed to salt, sun and spray. Coupler locks, wheel locks and hitch pins have their own designs, and a regular padlock is not always the right answer. Storage units come with their own rules and often require a specific kind of lock. If you rent a unit, read the facility's requirements before you buy, and keep a record of who holds keys. Our page on storage facility lock issues explains how these facilities usually handle lost keys and overlocks.

Common mistakes when choosing outdoor locks

A few errors come up again and again. People choose a lock because it looks heavy, without checking the shackle or the finish. They fit a thick lock through a thin hasp, so the lock is the strongest part of a chain of weak parts. They hang a lock where it sits on the ground and collects water. They buy several different locks for one property and then cannot remember which key goes where, so they stop locking the less convenient ones.

Another mistake is ignoring the key. A poor-quality key blank cut on a worn machine may work poorly in a tight outdoor lock and can break. Keep the original key safe, and cut copies from it. Write down which key goes with each lock in a place that is not on the gate. And do not leave a spare key hidden near the gate, since it is likely to be found.

• Check shackle thickness, hasp strength and anchor quality together.
• Hang locks so water drains away from the keyway.
• Limit the number of different keys on a property.
• Keep a record of which key goes with each lock.

When a padlock or gate lock will not open

A padlock that will not open is a common and frustrating problem, and it is one where people are tempted to do harm. We do not give instructions for opening a lock that is working as designed, and we do not recommend hammering, cutting or forcing it without authority. Cutting a lock off a gate is a serious action and should be done only by the person entitled to make that decision, preferably with the right tools and with care for the gate and the people around.

If you are the owner of the gate or the property and the key is lost or the lock has seized, call and explain. A technician can talk with you about options and will ask for proof that you are entitled to request the work. If the lock secures something that belongs to someone else, such as a shared gate, a tenant's storage area or a business, the owner or manager must authorize the work. Our page on who can request a lockout service explains how authorization works.

Calling about outdoor locks

When you call about a padlock or gate lock, describe where it is, what it protects, what kind of lock and gate it is and what the problem is. If you are choosing new hardware, say what you want to protect and who needs access. Quotes are given only by phone, and a complicated job needs an on-site visit. There is a service call charge, and it is explained on the phone before dispatch.

Have photo ID ready, and a document that connects you to the property or the gate. If the property belongs to someone else, such as an HOA or a landlord, be ready to say who they are. When you are ready, call and a person will talk you through the next step.

Questions people ask

Related pages